Dating hay budden anvil

A whole new craft to investigate, and lots of tools to buy.gwilson & Sea Farmer - I see a line there, but the mark on the side says solid steel, and the reading I've done so far tells me Soderfors anvils are solid. It sort of looks like a parting line in a mold, or the line where it was planed off from the casting. ) I cut last spring drying out to use for a base, I hope it's hard enough.Ill publish your letter in Blacksmiths Gazette and see if anyone else can come up with more information.Fred Holder" Comes from this link: for the length of the quote.The other he gave to a guy as payment for doing some excavating work for him. I happen to have a solid tool steel anvil,but most have a welded on top over a softer body. Chain the top down,tightening the chains by means of eye hooks going down through the log rings. The edges on most anvils you find are badly damaged due to being struck with a hammer or? Google "Blacksmith" and you will find several blacksmith groups that you can join or just get more information.In the old days,the bodys were wrought iron,which is why the tops would cave on over a period of time. If your anvil is in as good of shape as it looks in the pictures it would sell for about 0 out here on the west coast and could go for 00! ( you can still buy a new european double horn ) Make a good heavy stand for it and try to keep the vibration down by wrapping a length of chain around the bottom. Like most tools there is a correct and a wrong way to use it.The number stamped on the anvil would be its actual weight, they didnt use codes.Paragon Solid Steel Anvils were made in weights from 50 pounds to 450 pounds. Says the hearth is 18 inches , fan is 8 inches, weight is 75 pounds. The forge was equipped with a small shield to protect the fire from the wind.

Soderfors Bruks Akkticbolag was located in Falun, Sweden and exported blacksmiths , farriers, and sawmakers anvils to the United States.

Norm I see the same weld line as gwilson, but this is not a defect at all! Looks a lot like my Hay-Budden, it's a sweet anvil. I mounted mine with 2 u-bolts, ground the ends to points to hammer them into a section of English Oak log.

To reduce the ring just attach one or two very strong rare-earth magnets on the front and back of the base. A helper with a 4-lb sledge for some heavy hammering doesn't hurt either. As for the parts you got for the hardy hole (the square hole), I warn you, don't leave the sharp wedge in the hole when you walk away from the anvil. If you want a good, sturdy bowl for hammer bowl shapes, I've found the chopped off bottom of an argon cylinder is great. Whatever you do, please do not grind, weld, or do anything else to it.

It further refers to a book: "Anvils in America" by Richard Postman. It stands on four legs, the fire pot is about 20" dia., the blower is mounted under the forge, it has written on its side NO.150 REG. Mike Menard Answer: Finally, got around to looking in my book, Anvils in America by Richard Postman.

I'm not familiar with the book, but here's the reference: "Question: Altough I am not new to metal work, I am new to blacksmithing. I found some information about my anvil in one of your articals and was wondering if you could tell me more about it. This anvil came out of the Missouri Kansas Texas rail road round house (locomotive servicing facility). Richard devotes almost three pages to the Paragon anvil, which was made by a Swedish company names Soderfors.

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